Aquiares Estate:
A Legacy of Innovation and Excellence
Nestled in the heart of Costa Rica, on the fertile slopes of the Turrialba volcano, Aquiares Estate tells the long and enduring story of coffee cultivation in the region. With a rich history spanning over a century, this expansive estate has evolved into a catalyst of sustainable agriculture and a front runner for creating better conditions for farm workers. The estate is a real pioneer in specialty coffee.
Specialty coffee to combat colonial economical structures
To understand coffee production in Costa Rica, it’s important to take a closer look at the country’s history. During the 1800s there were significant political changes - it was a period of Spanish colonial rule, a Mexican annexation, and a Central American alliance, before the country declared itself an independent republic in 1948.
The end of the Spanish colonial rule allowed Costa Rica to focus on developing its own economy. Quickly recognising the economic potential of coffee, the government wanted to stimulate production. So, it offered free land to farmers - many of whom were British.
Coffee soon became the country's primary export. By 1829, coffee had surpassed other traditional exports like cacao, tobacco, and sugar, becoming a major source of revenue. The government also supported infrastructure projects funded by coffee revenue, such as building railroads to connect the country to the Atlantic Coast and constructing cultural landmarks like the National Theatre in San José.
The coffee industry helped transform Costa Rica's economy from a colonial system to an organised production model for export. This economic shift contributed to the modernisation of the country and provided opportunities for Costa Ricans to study abroad, further integrating Costa Rica into the global market.
The foundation of the Aquiares Estate
The free land offered by the Costa Rican government attracted foreign investment and expertise, including from British nationals. As such, Aquiares was founded in 1890 by British farmers looking to take advantage of Costa Rica’s new railroad to the port of Limón - and the farm was one of the first to produce and export Costa Rican coffee.
The estate sits between the Aquiares and Turrialba Rivers, “Aquiares” means “land between rivers” in Costa Rica’s Huetar indigenous language. This region used to be the centre for this pre-Columbian civilisation, and occasionally old artefacts are found among the coffee trees.
The land of Aquiares has a multitude of clean water sources and even provides drinking water to three communities down-stream.Coffee plots are interlaced with natural springs and countless streams and rivers, all of which are protected with forested buffer zones. The network of natural corridors throughout the farm connects the large, preserved forests in the two river valleys, providing a healthy environment for the local animals, birds, and plants
The importance of looking after your team
In 1971, the farm was purchased by its current owners - the Robelo family - who have worked together with the farm’s staff and community to implement a modern model of sustainable agriculture. The town of Aquiares, originally built to house workers on the estate, sits in the middle of the farm. Originally, the farm owned the houses where employees lived. But, in 1992, under new management by Don Alfonso, social welfare of farm workers and the wider community was one of the main priorities. His dedication has transformed the farm and the region.
The farm started a project to enable people to own their own houses. Each worker was given a bonus for their years of service, lots were priced at a fraction of the local rate, and assistance was given to apply for the government house fund. In the beginning, workers thought it was too good to be true. But as the first families obtained their own homes, everyone followed suit, and in a matter of three years, the town was brought to life. Today 96% of the employees own their own home.
Today, most of the approximately 2,000 residents in the town of Aquiares work at the estate, in roles from accountants to coffee pickers. Aquiares pays its employees fair wages, invests in higher education and sponsors medical plans for its employees, including childcare for seasonal workers. Aquiares has become a place where many want to live, and now the cost of land here is comparable to that of San José, Costa Rica's capital.
Creating a brighter future for specialty coffee
The farm manages the entire coffee production chain, from seedling production to plant cultivation, harvesting and milling. This ensures that they are able to meet the highest standards of quality assurance and can guarantee a traceable product. The main variety grown on the farm is Caturra, but climate change and pests require constant experimentation to adapt to future conditions. Not only does the farm experiment with new varieties, it’s also part of the movement that began honey processing which was introduced as a response to water shortages after the earthquake in 2008.
Aquiares has become an international leader in environmental sustainability in coffee production. The farm’s agricultural objective is to find synergies like these, where environmental health translates into coffee plant health, which ultimately contributes to a long-term stability in the production of high-quality coffee.
Since 2000, Aquiares has planted 50,000 native species of shade trees, transitioning away from full-sun monoculture coffee production to shade grown coffee. The shade trees prevent soil erosion and create natural buffers and springs, connecting two important wildlife corridors. They also provide firewood, support native bird species, and bear fruit for coffee pickers to eat during harvest season. Data collected on the farm has indicated that these trees have lowered the maximum daily temperature by 2℃.
Its stringent environmental stewardship means the farm achieved Rainforest Alliance Certification in 2003 and in 2012, Aquiares became the first farm in Costa Rica to fulfil the requirements of the Rainforest Alliance Climate Module. This requires adhering to careful standards of greenhouse gas emissions and energy use, which are carefully tracked through each harvest season. The farm is not only 100% carbon neutral, it’s actually carbon negative.
Diego Robelo began his post as ‘innovation manager’ in 2013 and has developed collaborations with World Coffee Research (WCR) and the Costa Rican Coffee Institute (ICAFE), including an experimental garden for Central American Coffee varieties for WCR such as the Esperanza F1. Working with researchers from WCR, Aquiares planted 43 coffee hybrid varieties in a dedicated test plot. These were observed over a six year period for yield, disease resistance and quality. The study, which involved farms from two other countries, ultimately identified four hybrids that are disease resistant and have promising yields with an average Speciality Coffee Association cupping score
Looking towards the future
From its early beginnings until today, the Aquiares estate has been a pioneer in coffee. Today, the estate is the largest continuous coffee farm in Costa Rica, covering 924 hectares, 80% of which is planted under shade-grown Arabica.
The farm and its proprietors continue to champion exceptional coffee, and the Aquiares Estate is more than just a coffee farm; it is a testament to the power of human ingenuity and the enduring beauty of nature. Through a combination of tradition and innovation, the team has created a legacy that will continue to inspire generations to come.
If you’re interested in trying the coffee from the Aquiares Estate, check out Don Alfonso here.
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